Fabric Glossary: Terms Starting with N

Nap, Napped, Napping

Napping is a finishing process that raises and distresses fibers on the surface of a fabric to create a soft, fuzzy texture. This treatment not only enhances the fabric’s softness and appearance but also increases its warmth, compacts the fabric structure, and improves durability.

The nap process is typically carried out using a napper machine equipped with rollers or teasels covered in fine wire brushes. As these rollers revolve, they gently lift the fibers on the fabric’s face, producing the characteristic raised surface known as the nap.

In sewing, when a fabric is described as having a nap, it means the raised fibers have a distinct direction. You can feel this direction by stroking the fabric pile in opposite ways. The texture will feel different depending on the direction you move your hand. Because of this directional quality, it is crucial when laying out pattern pieces to ensure all pieces are aligned in the same direction. This alignment maintains consistency in the fabric’s appearance and texture throughout the finished garment.

Some fabrics, such as Silk Charmeuse and Silk Satin, exhibit a subtle nap due to their weaving technique rather than mechanical napping. For these fabrics as well, it is important to lay out pattern pieces uniformly to preserve the fabric’s visual and tactile consistency.

Needlecord

Is a fine corduroy with a wale above 14. It has a shorter pile than regular corduroy and feels lighter weight.

Needle Lace

Are types of laces that originally were made only using a needle, thread and scissors to create the lace. The origins date back to the 16th century, found in Reticella lace making. Needle lace work is built up using a variety of stitches, the most basic being the buttonhole or blanket stitch. Examples of needle laces are Alencon lace, Carrickmacross lace, and Reticella lace. Today, almost all handmade laces have now been replaced with machine made. See lacemaking machines.

Needlepoint

Is a type of embroidery done in a small diagonal direction on basket-weave or even-weave fabrics. When referring to needlepoint lace it means the lace is made by hand using a needle rather than bobbins.

Neoprene

A synthetic rubber made from the polymerization of chloroprene. It is known for its flexibility, durability, and resistance to water, heat, and chemicals and is produced as a foam or coated fabric. Neoprene is popular in fashion for jackets, skirts, dresses, and accessories as well as for bags, laptop sleeves, phone cases, wetsuits, diving suits, and other athletic gear.

Net, Netting

Is a mesh fabric which can be made of any fiber including polyester, nylon, rayon, cotton or silk. The mesh can be made into various shapes and sizes, thicknesses, and weights.

Noil

Is the short leftover fiber that has been removed from yarn in the process of carding and combing fibers like wool or cotton. It is considered the waste fiber and can be used for filling, stuffing, or padding. Noil can also be spun into fabrics. In the silk industry, silk noil is made from the noils that are left over from preparing filament silk and is considered the “scraps” or waste silk swept off the floor. Silk noil can also be made from the short fibers from the cocoons which are not used to make high quality silks. These short fibers have a slightly rough texture and are weaker, with low resilience and low luster. These characteristics make silk noil appear and feel more like cotton rather than silk. Silk noil is also referred to as “raw silk” which is a misnomer.

Nonwoven Fabric

Is a fabric structure obtained by bonding and interlocking fibers. Nonwoven fabric examples are felt, Ultrasuede, and interfacing. The bonding can be by chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent treatment. Polypropylene is a nonwoven plastic made from oil used to make filter type fabrics popular for facemasks.

Notions

When referring to sewing, notions are accessories, small items, and tools used in sewing. Examples are buttons, snaps, threads, needles, pins, marking pens, seam rippers, elastic, bias tape, ribbons, zippers, fasteners, hooks, scissors, cutting tools, cutting mats, and rulers.

Nub

Is a type of novelty yarn where an intentionally added bump or lump is added into the yarn. The twisting process of yarn causes nubs to appear at intervals along the length of twisted yarn. Fabric made from these yarns is considered a novelty fabric and used in coatings, tweeds, sweaters, decorative and upholstery fabrics.

Nylon

Is a synthetic fabric made from a type of plastic that is made from oil. It is not biodegradable. Women’s hosiery became nylons’ first big success in the fashion industry in 1939 and led to the use of the name for that type of garment. Nylon fibers can be woven on their own or blended with other fibers into all types of fabric weaves.