Fabric Glossary: Terms Starting with P

Paisley

Paisley is an intricate pattern featuring the boteh or buta motif - a teardrop shape with a curved upper end and floral embellishments. The term "boteh" means bush or flower bud in Persian, while "buta" refers to an almond or pinecone shape. This design dates back over 2,200 years to Persian-Indian dynasties and was historically a symbol of nobility, often woven in silk with gold and silver threads for royal garments. Over time, paisley has been adopted by many cultures and remains one of the most popular and enduring textile patterns.

Panne

Panne is a type of flattened velvet characterized by a liquid, satiny luster. It typically has a higher pile than other velvets and is usually made from silk and rayon blends, though synthetic versions also exist. Some vendors market stretch panne, but these are often stretch velour fabrics mislabeled as panne.

Parachute Fabric

Traditionally parachute fabric was made from silk until the invention of nylon (a synthetic fiber derived from petroleum). parachutes are now typically made from lightweight, woven nylon ripstop fabric, prized for its strength and durability.

Pattern

In fabrics, a pattern is a repeated design or weave motif that appears at regular intervals. In sewing and fashion, a pattern is a paper template used to cut fabric pieces for garment construction. In knitting and needlework, a pattern refers to written instructions detailing rows or stitches.

Pashmina

Pashmina is a fine animal hair fiber which is a variant of cashmere, known for its softness and warmth.

Peau de Soie

Peau de soie, French for "skin of silk," is a luxurious fabric also known as paduasoy or padesoy. There is some debate about its exact weave with some people describing it as twill, while others describe it as corded grosgrain, or even Duchesse satin. Some vendors incorrectly label polyester twill or satin fabrics as peau de soie.

Pellon

Pellon is a registered trademark for a type of nonwoven interfacing used in garment construction to add structure and support.

Percale

Percale is a fine, smooth, tightly woven plain weave fabric commonly used for bedsheets. It can be made from cotton, polyester, or blends.

Petit Point

Petit point refers to very small tent stitches used in needlework, embroidery, or tapestry.

Picots

When referring to lace, picots are small ornamental loops or series of small loops of twisted threads which form an edging on lace or ribbon.

Piece Dyed

Piece dyed fabric is dyed after weaving, whereas yarn dyed fabric is dyed before weaving.

Pigment

Pigments are colored solids or materials that are nearly insoluble in water, used to color fabrics.

Pile Fabric

Pile fabrics have yarns that project from the base fabric, creating a textured surface. The pile can be cut or uncut. Examples of cut pile fabrics include corduroy and velveteen, while terry cloth is an example of uncut pile. Velvet is a cut warp pile fabric.

Pilling, Pills

Pilling refers to small balls or tufts of fiber that form on fabric surfaces due to wear and friction. Fabrics prone to pilling include wool, cotton blends, acrylic, polyester, and nylon.

Pillowcase Silk

The best silk fabrics for pillowcases are Silk Charmeuse Satin and Sueded Silk. Both woven with a satin weave. Silk is a natural, breathable fiber that helps keep sleepers cool, unlike synthetic satin fabrics made from polyester, which can trap heat and contribute to skin issues. The satin weave’s smooth finish reduces friction, helping prevent hair breakage and skin irritation. Because satin has a nap, it’s important to determine the fabric’s direction before cutting pillowcases to minimize friction based on your sleeping habits. Both Silk Charmeuse Satin and Sueded Silk are available in lightweight, midweight, and heavyweight varieties.

Pima Cotton

Pima cotton, formerly known as Arizona Egyptian Cotton or American Egyptian Cotton, is an extra-long staple cotton derived from modified varieties of Gossypium barbadense grown primarily in Arizona, New Mexico, and Southern California. The name was changed in the early 1900s to honor the Pima Indians, who cultivated this cotton for the USDA in Arizona.

Pima cotton is renowned as one of the finest cottons in the world, prized for its exceptional softness, strength, and durability. While Pima cotton and Egyptian cotton both come from the same species, Gossypium barbadense, the key difference lies in their geographic origin: Pima cotton is grown in the United States, whereas Egyptian cotton is cultivated in Egypt.

Pinstripe, Pin Stripe

Pinstripe refers to a fine, thin stripe woven or printed onto fabrics. Pinstripes can be made from any fiber, including wool, cotton, linen, silk, and synthetics and are available in all fabric weights including lightweight, midweight, and heavyweight.

Pinwale or Pincord

Pinwale is a fine corduroy characterized by a wale count above 16. It has a shorter pile than regular corduroy and feels lighter in weight. Please see Corduroy for more details.

Pique (Piqué)

Piqué is a fabric characterized by a weaving style that creates raised cords running in the warp direction. Some piqué fabrics resemble tiny quilted or padded patterns due to their dobby weave designs. Piqué can be woven or knitted on dobby, jacquard, or other looms and is available in various patterns such as honeycomb, cord, waffle, birdseye, and bullseye. It can be made from any fiber, including silk, cotton, and synthetic blends, and is typically medium to heavyweight.

Plaid

Plaid is the American term for tartan patterns. In Scotland, a plaid refers to a piece of fabric, garment, or blanket with a tartan pattern worn over the shoulder. Each tartan pattern in Scottish culture is often officially registered to represent a community, clan, or family. Patterns without official registration are sometimes called plaids. Natural woven plaids made from wool, silk, cotton, or linen may not perfectly pattern match due to loom tension variations during weaving.

Plain Weave

A plain weave is the most common fundamental fabric weave, sometimes called a one-up, one-down weave. Each filling yarn passes alternately over and under each warp yarn. The three fundamental weaves are plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave.

Plant Fibers

Plant fibers are natural fibers derived from plants. Common examples include cotton, flax (linen), hemp, jute, and ramie.

Pleated

Pleated fabrics have been treated to create a design of creases or folds formed by doubling the fabric back on itself and securing it. Techniques include heat-setting with or without fusible backing or sewing pleats in place (tucks). Professional pleating uses machines with pressurized heat, steam, and chemicals to permanently set pleats, preventing them from falling out after laundering. Some pleating is done by hand using templates and steam. Common pleat types include accordion, box flared, box straight, cartridge, crystal, double box, flat flared, flat straight, sunray, fluted, Fortuny, honeycomb, kick, Kingussie, knife, organ, plissé, rolled, stacked box, and Watteau.

Plissé

Plissé is a fabric treatment using caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) applied in stripes or spots. The chemical causes the fabric to shrink in treated areas, producing a crinkled, pleated, or seersucker-like effect. The finish may be permanent or partially removed during laundering, depending on fabric quality. This treatment can be applied to cotton, silk, synthetics, and other fibers.

Plush

Plush fabrics feature a surface covered with cut pile yarns from fibers such as wool, mohair, cotton, or synthetics. The pile is longer than velvet but less densely woven. The base fabric can be woven or knitted. Plush is popular for teddy bears and toys. See Minky.

Ply

Ply refers to the number of individual yarns twisted together. The strands are twisted in the opposite direction to their original spin to create a balanced, strong yarn. In silk weaving, ply is used in the weft to produce balanced silk fabrics, commonly 2-ply, 3-ply, or 4-ply silk crepe. More twist results in a smoother, more balanced fabric, while less twist produces a more textured finish. At JB Silks, our 4-ply silk crepe has a smooth finish, a substantial weight, and a soft hand, while our 3-ply has a slight texture, slightly less weight than the 4-ply, but remains soft and substantial.

Point d’Alençon Lace

Is a French needle lace, see Alencon Lace.

Point de Venise Lace

Is a Venetian needle lace, see Venise Lace.

Polyamide

Polyamide in textiles refers to a category of synthetic fibers made from polymer chains called polyamides. The most common type of polyamide fiber is nylon.

Polyester

Polyester in textiles is a synthetic fiber made primarily from petrochemicals and is one of the most widely used textile fibers globally due to its versatility and performance characteristics.

Polymer

Polymers in textiles provide versatility in fiber properties, allowing for a wide range of characteristics such as strength, elasticity, moisture management, durability, and texture.

Natural fibers like cotton, wool, and silk are made of natural polymers such as cellulose (in cotton) or proteins (in wool and silk).

Synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon (polyamide), acrylic, and spandex are made of man-made polymers created through chemical processes.

Polypropylene

A synthetic fiber made from propylene gas, a by-product of oil refining. Polypropylene fabrics melt easily and are commonly used for interfacing and nonwoven filter fabrics, such as those in facemasks.

Polystyrene

Polystyrene in textiles is primarily used as a polymer coating or finish due to its natural hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties however health and environmental concerns have led to efforts to find safer alternatives.

Polyurethane

Polyurethane in textiles refers to a versatile synthetic polymer commonly used as a coating, film, or fiber to enhance fabric properties. Polyurethane is found in spandex (lycra), foam cushions, and as a waterproof coating commonly used on outdoor gear and rainwear.

Pongee

Originally a woven silk fabric made on handlooms from wild silk, pongee today refers to a medium-weight plain weave fabric made from various fibers, including nylon and synthetics. It is commonly used for linings, umbrellas, and garments. Synthetic pongee is tightly woven, durable, strong, and naturally resistant to water, mildew, and mold, drying quickly.

Ponte Knit

Also known as Ponte di Roma, this is a thick, double-knit fabric known for its structure and stretch.

Poodle Cloth

A vintage fabric woven from wool and mohair with a looped, boucle, or curly surface resembling a poodle’s coat. Modern versions include knitted synthetic minky plush fabrics.

Poplin

Traditionally woven in a simple plain weave with silk warp threads and worsted weft yarns, poplin can be made from various fibers including silk, cotton, wool, rayon, and polyester. It can be smooth or ribbed, depending on the difference in yarn sizes. The greater the difference in yarn sizes, the more pronounced the rib. Renamed broadcloth in the American market in the 1920s, poplin is a classic formal and business shirting fabric known for its breathability, durability, and smooth, crisp hand. It is the smoothest shirting fabric but is prone to wrinkling.

Pre-Shrunk

Pre-shrunk fabrics have undergone treatments to reduce shrinkage before garment construction. Techniques vary by fiber type and may involve washing, drying, or compacting fibers. While pre-shrunk fabrics shrink less during laundering, some shrinkage may still occur. For example, JB Silks offers sueded silk fabrics with pre-shrinking treatments that minimize further shrinkage when laundered following JB Silks Cleaning Instructions.

Press Cloth

A press cloth is a protective fabric placed over garments or fabrics during ironing to prevent scorching, shine, or damage. Made from cotton or silk in various weights, popular choices include silk organza or silk satin organza, which are translucent and heat-resistant. Press cloths also protect the iron’s soleplate from residue buildup.

Print, Printed, Printing

Printing involves applying patterns, designs, or motifs onto fabric surfaces rather than weaving or knitting them in. Techniques include application printing, block printing, blotch printing, burn-out printing, direct printing, discharge printing, duplex printing, heat transfer printing, overprinting, photographic printing, print-on-print, resist printing, screen printing, shadow printing, stipple printing, and warp printing.

Digital Printing Note

Due to limitations in dye types and digital textile printing technology, certain colors like hazel cannot be accurately reproduced on silk fabrics. Digital printing uses a limited number of ink cartridges (typically cyan, magenta, yellow, and black), and AZO-free dyes are required for regulatory compliance, restricting the color palette. Colors such as nude tones may not print as expected. Alternative color selections are recommended.

Primary Colors

Primary colors are the foundation of the color wheel and include red, yellow, and blue. These are pure hues that cannot be created by mixing other colors.

Pucker, Puckering

Puckering refers to an uneven, rippled surface that can be intentionally or unintentionally created in woven or knitted fabrics. It often results from differential shrinkage between two bonded fabric layers during washing or dry cleaning. Puckering is especially common when fusible interfacing is applied to fabrics that have not been pre-shrunk. It can also occur along seams during sewing and may be challenging to eliminate.

Pure Silk

Pure silk refers to fabric made entirely from 100% silk threads, meaning all the fibers used to spin the threads are produced by silkworms, without any blending or mixing with other fibers.